Year 3 -8 July 2026 -Day Out in Port Elizabeth-South Africa
We woke quite late as we needed the rest. I made some smoothies and some had cereal after and coffee. John had made some calls and the local Toyota dealership agreed to lend him a car for us to use which was great. John has now retired but worked for Toyota for about 40 years. The car arrived about 11.00am and we decided to go off and visit thew lighthouse at Cape Recife so we could overlook part of the route we will sail in a few days.
We had been advised that walking around I town was not safe as there had been an increase I muggings recently. We drove out of town going South and there is a long boardwalk which runs for many miles along the coast so you can walk, run or cycle along this boardwalk and they have spent quite a lot of money on it. It is lined with trees- many of which are palm trees, benches, cafes and restaurants and it looked really quite smart. We drove on and took the coast road to Cape Recife which had a black and white lighthouse at the end. The route took us through a large area of sand dunes which now has a lot of shrub and seashore plants covering it giving it a remote and wild feel. We parked at the end and walked to the lighthouse through sand which was blowing in the wind creating little hills and drift patterns. The lighthouse was shut but it warned sailors and boats of the craggy wild shore on which it was set. We looked out at sea which was quite rough and disturbed with white horses and waves crashing on to the rocky shore. The shore was very rocky and rugged and no doubt many a wreck had perished on it. It was bleak and windy and we walked along the shore with the blind blowing our hair and it was a beautiful setting which we all had to ourselves and it felt very remote. We shall pass by this shore in a few days and will no doubt see the lighthouse from the sea.
Cape Recife (Afrikaans: Kaap Recife; Portuguese: Cabo de Recife, "Cape of the reefs") is the southeastern tip of Africa, 15 kilometres south of the South African seaport city Port Elizabeth. Cape Recife is the southern point of Algoa Bay and forms part of the Nelson Mandela Bay Metropolitan Municipality.
The name, Portuguese for “reef”, refers to the numerous reefs on which many ships stranded. The historic lighthouse was built in 1849 and is located in the Cape Recife nature reserve. Just north are the Nelson Mandela University, Port Elizabeth International Airport and SANCCOB.
Cape Recife is popular with surfers and divers. The warm Agulhas Current flows past the cape. The Lighthouse guides ships past the treacherous Thunderbolt Reef, it is an iconic 24-meter octagonal tower.
Once we had been to the lighthouse we drove to a SANCCOB Bird Sanctuary. This was founded in 1968 by Althea Westphal and is the South African Association for the conservation of coastal birds. Its aim is to rescue, treat and to rehabilitate birds in need – mostly penguins who live on Bird Island I referred to yesterday.
We had guide who explained about SANCOBB and about what they do. She explained that many penguins are rescued as they are affected by pollution, oil spills and because of overfishing which means they do not have enough to eat.
Penguins are monogamous and mate for life. They share the upbringing of their offspring and both will sit on the egg whilst the other feeds. When the chick is born they both help feed it and it has grey fluffy feather which are not waterproof and this lasts about 3 months. The grey fluffy feathers go so that they become greyish and blue. They are now waterproof and they develop black spots on their bellies which are all unique and different for each penguin. This is known as the fledgling stage and lasts 3-12 months and they can now swim. They then become a juvenile for 1-2 years and their colour turns more brown and they develop a pink gland above their eyes which helps them regulate their temperature. They then become an adult and their colours turn more black and white and they will now find a mate. They live for about 10-15 years and get rid of salt through a gland. They can dive to 130m and can swim at about 20km per hour.
Once this was all explained we went to a pen and pool area which was for those penguins who are so injured that they could not be rehabilitated and lived there permanently. It was good to see them so close up and they had a good pool and seemed happy. There was also a gannet who had a broken wing and could not fly. They can dive from 30 meters up and hit the water about 100km an hour.
We were then taken over to another area which is the hospital section where there were a range of different penguins of different stages and who were all being rehabilitated. One had been operated on as he had swallowed a fish lure. They clearly are doing a good job and there are now only 8,000 mating pairs in South Africa whereas they used to be 2million. A sobering thought as to what we are doing to our planet.
Once we had visited this centre we drove further down the coast where we could look over the Southern Atlantic Ocean. This was interesting and the ocean looked wilder.
We then drove back to PE and did some small shopping in the Broadwalk Mall which was opposite Barney’s a recommended pub. We went there for a meal and they had some good cold beer. We eat overlooking the huge bay where some were swimming.
Once we were don we returned to Stormbird and sorted a few things out. Hisham had slipped the night before and things he may have broken some ribs. He therefore felt he should get off the boat and return home. This was a shame but I respected his decision.
We went to the Ski Club for some supper and then back to Stormbird for bed. It had been good to see a little of PE and the surrounding area.
We plan to go to the Addo Elephant National Park in the morning quite early so Hisham can join us before his early afternoon flight which he had booked.
I heard from Des.
Dear Nick
Thanks for latest - was about to give an update - my inbox has been a disaster this morning! The gribs still show Fri midday\afternoon a "GO" Cape Town shows a switch to N\NW10 Mon midday but suspect you will be in -failing which you could duck into Hout Bay. Will update again tomorrow
The picture of the day has to be a South African Penguin.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
I am now on the way to Durban and will then head for Cape Town and then on to St Helena, Azores and back to the UK.
I am now in need of 1 additional crew from Cape Town to the Azores. The new crew member would need to be onboard by 10 August and it is likely we would get to the Azores by late September or early October. If at all interested in joining me please contact me on my email below or WhatsApp +44 7931360372.
The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com