Year 3 -7 July 2026 -Arrival Port Elizabeth-South Africa
As you know we passed East London as we decided to push on to Port Elizabeth. Jenny waved a hello and goodbye as we passed East London (she lives in East London in the UK)
East London, officially KuGompo City since February 2026, is a city on the southeastern coast of South Africa, in the Buffalo City Metropolitan Municipality, Eastern Cape Province. The city lies on the Indian Ocean coast, largely between the Buffalo River and the Nahoon River, and hosts the country's only river port. As of 2011, East London had a population of over 267,000 with over 755,000 in the surrounding metropolitan area. East London has an oceanic climate, bordering on a humid subtropical climate, with the warm temperatures and moderation typical of the South African coastline. Although it has no true dry season, there is a drying trend in the winter, with the wettest times of year being spring and autumn. There is also a shorter and lesser dry period in December and January.
The all-time record low is 3 °C (37.4 °F), and the all-time record high is 44 °C (111.2 °F) on 13 March 2021. The hottest temperatures have been recorded in springtime and autumn, rather than the summer months, due to violent berg (foehn) winds. Temperatures above 38 °C (100 °F) have only been recorded early in the season, from August to December. Berg winds contribute to these high temperatures, as already warm air from the arid interior is further heated through compression as it drops over the escarpment to sea level.
We left East London behind and motored on in the dark. John and I had the 2.00am to 5.00am watch -the red eye slot as we sometimes call it. We saw shipping but it was mostly off to our left and we could see the lights on the shore as we were about 5nm off, some of which looked like they were in the water. Distance takes a different perspective at night. We were now in Algoa Bay now and we passed Bird Island where John’s grandfather used to be the lighthouse man. His mother was brought up there but he has never been to visit. He does have in his house a stool which his grandfather made from driftwood from Bird Island.
What do they say about Bird Island which has a lighthouse and we could see its light. South Africa is amazing from coast to coast, but sometimes you just have to venture a little further out to sea, to appreciate more of the beauty that this country has to offer. Lying just off the coast of Port Elizabeth, you will find a scattered constellation of tiny islands called The Bird Island Group Marine Protected Area.Why Bird Island? These islands are a critical habitat for the sadly endangered African penguins and Cape gannets. Obviously you can’t waltz onto the island like you own the place, but it is an amazing place to cruise along on a boat, especially for you bird (and shark) lovers out there. They may not be large – some are not much more than glorified rocky surfaces poking out of the sea – but they are home to South Africa’s greatest colonies of Cape gannets, African penguins, roseate terns, Antarctic terns and kelp gulls.
So we passed a little bit of history as we cruised along about 7-7.5 kts. We had a little current to help us but it was cold. We were layered up with hats jackets and jumpers and if felt like an English cold day in the Solent. This was all a shock to me as I have been in tee-shirts and shorts for 3 years!!
We handed over to Keith and Hisham and we had put a waypoint on the edge of the TSS (Ship Traffic Separation Zone – basically lanes that the cargo and tanker ships us). I had placed another further up and I asked them to wake me when we got there.
I was woken when they arrived at that point and we radioed Port Control (VHF ch 12) to explain we were approaching the port. They authorised us to proceed with caution and we agreed to call them closer to the harbour entrance.
Keith motored on and we were listening to Port Control and the ship movements and with AIS we could identify the ships on the plotter and who was moving where which helped us with our course as we approached the major ship moving area. Port Control called us to state that we should proceed with caution as there were a number of ships moving. There were two ships called Valencia and Valentia which was a little confusing but we followed Valencia who took on a pilot and was going into the port. There was also a dredger coming in as well front our right hand side.
We continued and the dredger went in front of us and behind Valencia. About a mile from the harbour I called up Port Control and sought permission to enter the harbour. They asked a few questions and then authorised us to proceed. We could see Valencia mooring against a wall with the help of 2 tugs and we passed West of the dredger which was going slowly into the port.
As we entered the port the westerly wind increased to 20 +kts then 25 and then 32 and finally 38kts, the start of a Force 9. Stormbird was healing a little under bare poles with this wind. We eased in and it was calmer inside and the wind died a little to 20-23 kts. I had got the guys rigging lines and putting out the fenders in preparation for mooring.
I had been liaising with the representative at the port and we had a pontoon reserved for us and I had been sent a picture of the space. I could see where it was on the chart and then visually I could see where it was. I reversed as planned down the channel and the fishing fleet was on our port side and our pontoon was on starboard. Once I had reversed down we went forward and on the pontoon with the wind blowing hard. We got John on the pontoon and some locals from the marina came to help. We put double lines on as we are expecting the next Southerly Buster on the 8/9 July.
We sorted ourselves out and put on the electrics. Keith got on with a cooked breakfast and we had a very enjoyable much deserved bacon and egg with avocado and toast breakfast. We had arrived and covered 406nm in 49 hours and 45 minutes. It had been a much-needed passage to get through without having bad weather and we had been lucky even though we had to motor some of the way.
I emailed Des to say we had arrived and mentioned again the possible passage to Cape Town on the 10th July which was looking promising.
Des replied
Excellent - can't decide if I am more in awe of the yacht's capabilities or yours!! Will have a look at the gribs once I clear the waiting yachties. Des
He later responded-
Dear Nick & co
You have +- 400nm to Cape Town which should be a walk in the park except Cape Agulhas and Cape Pt call the shots. The Agulhas current heads SW away from the coast and is for all practical purposes out of play. The perfect situation is if a high-pressure system moves east past Cape Agulhas and drives SE\E\NE wind onto the coast from PE to Cape Agulhas. The gribs shows a system ridging in on Fri 10\7 bringing initially S wind to PE but as it moves east the wind turns SE and E all the way to and past Cape Agulhas. This high-pressure system is a brute with central pressure 1037mba and can't see it changing its mind willy nilly. Would get the ducks in a row for departure Fri morning. Will update again tomorrow.
So what about Port Elizabeth
Gqeberha, also known by its former name Port Elizabeth and colloquially referred to as P.E., is a major seaport and the most populous city in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. It is the seat of the Nelson Mandela Bay Metropolitan Municipality, South Africa's second-smallest metropolitan municipality by area It is the sixth-most populous city in South Africa and is the cultural, economic and financial hub of the Eastern Cape.
Gqeberha was founded in 1820 as Port Elizabeth by Sir Rufane Donkin, who was the governor of the Cape at the time. He named it after his wife, Elizabeth, who had died in India. The Donkin Memorial in the CBD of the city bears testament to that. It was established by the government of the Cape Colony when 4,000 British colonists settled in Algoa Bay to strengthen the border region between the Cape Colony and the Xhosa. It is nicknamed "The Friendly City" or "The Windy City". In 2019, the Eastern Cape Geographical Names Committee recommended that Port Elizabeth be renamed Gqeberha, after the Xhosa and Southern Khoe name for the Baakens River that flows through the city. The city's name change was officially gazetted on 23 February 2021.
Located on the western portion of Algoa Bay along the southeastern coast of South Africa, the city lies 770 km east of Cape Town. It is east of the Garden Route and faces the Indian Ocean. It covers 251 square kilometres of the Nelson Mandela Bay metropolitan area, and is administered by South Africa's sixth-largest metropolitan municipality. The city's warm oceanic climate ranks it among the top cities in the world for pleasant year-round weather. The city is known for many blue-flag beaches along the city's urban coastline; its popularity as an international and local holiday destination; and its rich and diverse cultural heritage. It is a gateway city for the Eastern Cape's adventure, outdoor and African big five game safari tourism.
Once we had had breakfast we tidied up and had showers and made ourselves feel human again. Hisham went off to town to look around and Mark followed shortly thereafter.
John had identified Barnies as a good place to go to for some beer and food. We therefore decided to go up to the Nelson Mandela Yacht Club for a welcome drink and wait for the others. The sun came out and I sorted out the mooring costs.
We had our first beer on the balcony in the sun which was very enjoyable. We all had done a good job in getting here safe and sound and it was a good feeling.
Hisham eat in town and Mark did not appear so going to Barnies was not really an option. We have a few days here anyway.
We had a good long lazy lunch meal sitting on the terrace and enjoyed each other’s company. Hisham and Mark later returned and joined us.
We returned to Stormbird when we finished and all had an early night to catch up on some well needed sleep.
The picture of the day is of the view from the terrace overlooking the pontoons with Stormbird at the end on the left. It is not the most attractive of ports.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
I am now on the way to Durban and will then head for Cape Town and then on to St Helena, Azores and back to the UK.
I am now in need of 1 additional crew from Cape Town to the Azores. The new crew member would need to be onboard by 10 August and it is likely we would get to the Azores by late September or early October. If at all interested in joining me please contact me on my email below or WhatsApp +44 7931360372.
The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com