Year 3 -17 March 2026 - Stormbird - Kochi - India

I woke at a reasonable time as the cool temperature is rather pleasant as the rest of the day is hot. I had my usual breakfast and of course some decent coffee bought at the Aroma factory in Kumily.

It was a day to do passage planning etc. I had heard from my Maldive agent that he had got me a cruising permit so theoretically once we have checked in with customs and Immigration checking in should be quite straightforward.

The problem with the Maldive is that the electronic charts are not that accurate and there are lots of reefs and coral bommies to contend with. In addition there are named atolls and named islands on the edge of the atolls and it can be quite confusing when the books and other sailors are using all sorts of unpronounceable names like Kuthudhutfushi and Nolhivaranfaru. In addition the waters are very deep and only become shallower to anchor the close you get – the question is how close. Ideally you have good sand to anchor in but in the Maldives there is a lot of coral and bommies you can get your chain wrapped round if you are not careful. There is also so much to explore and no pilot book. I had looked up and downloaded a number of sources and articles which I read through.

Male is the capital but it is difficult to anchor there so most anchor on the next island which is busy and has the airport. I looked at the chart plotter and some of the islands and atolls do not really make it obvious where the passes are. People navigate using their chart plotter but also satellite images from Google Earth (which I have used before) which shows the reef and bommies quite well assuming cloud does not obscure that section. A lot of navigation is done by sight with good light as you can see the coral and can estimate the depth from the colour of the water. You need someone on the bow and ideally someone sitting on the first spreaders to guide the helmsman. It will be a challenge like the Tuamotus in French Polynesia. The rewards of getting it right are beautiful remote anchorages in clear blue water with great snorkelling and lots of marine life.

Once I had looked at the charts I decided to try and print off these articles some of which give me GPS positions of anchorages and passes. I have heard that boats going through the Red Sea have had their GPS interfered with which I assume comes from the current GPS conflict. However, it is unlikely this will be the case in the Maldives. I got the printer out which gave me problems before. The printer connected to my computer and seemed to accept the print job but it just did not print. I resisted the temptation to throw it in the water and assumed the problem was that I was trying to print without internet. It should not be but ….

I therefore took the printer and computer up to reception and connected to the internet and the same problem occurred it would not print! I googled and looked up what could be wrong. It would make a copy so it was not the ink, paper, paper feeder etc. I was tempted to throw it into the swimming pool nearby but was able to resist. I asked reception and a man came to help me. When he pulled the wire connecting the computer out it worked on wifi only. He thinks it may be the cable or the adapter I was using to connect the lead. I therefore started to print some off and then the ink ran out. Ahhhhhhhh. I went back to the boat and got another cartridge but it had been opened. It did not work and was empty. I messaged the agent with a picture of the cartridge and he replied they do not do those cartridges in India. Double Ahhhhhhhhhhh. Oh well I shall just have to do without the print offs. Luckily I had printed off the crew list to leave India, the BIOT permit to go to Chagos and the Cruising permit for the Maldives. I therefore as calmly as I could put the printer back in its box and returned to Stormbird. I then asked my brother to bring out some cartridges. The alternative would be to buy another printer here. That would then be the 4th printer I would have bought on my trip.

It was time for some lunch and to calm down. I put on some music and after lunch returned to the plotter. I put in the coordinates for where we enter, although the agent has yet to confirm this. I then decided to put in waypoints for all the anchorages and passes that the articles gave me which took some hours. Looking back on the plotter after this was done have you a scaled view of the atolls and where people had been. Once we arrive or before when I have more time I can plan a bit of an itinerary taking into account when people arrive and when they leave as there is a bit of toing and frowing during this period.

By this time the afternoon was wearing on (planning takes time) and I looked at Chagos and put in the coordinates for the anchorage that we are being allowed to go to. I then looked at Mauritius and you can use an agent there or do it on your own. In terms of Reunion (A French department like Mauritius) it was not clear whether non-Europeans needed a visa -it seemed to suggest you do.    

In terms of South Africa I will have to send some documents in advance but it probably makes sense to check in at Durban as it is 90nm nearer to Cape Hope.   

It was now 5.15pm and I had been inside sweating away and decided to go for a swim at the pool. You could hear a tssssssssg noise as I got in and enjoyed a 30-minute soak and swim. I then showed and returned to enjoy a cold beer to watch the sun go down listening to Bob Dylan’s Greatest Hits.

I had a feta cheese salad with a glass of wine and then watched a film with the fan blowing on me. It had been a productive day and I now know when the crew are arriving, the 24th,25th and 26th.  We will aim to leave on the 29th.

I had been reading about gas and fuel shortages due to the Middle East and in Sri Lanka they have given Wenesday’s as extra holiday so people do not have to travel to work. In addition that yachts in the Maldives have said that they may introduce rationing. I therefore asked Varghese to look into the situation for me and he says there may not be any gas for 10 days. I also asked the agent to ensure I can fill up my diesel tanks – I need about 300 lts I think. He is looking into it. It is interesting times and in a matter of weeks it is impacting on many parts of the world.

The picture is Stormbird having a marina to itself as the sun rises.  

 Need/Opportunity Year Three

In year three I will be going from Thailand to Sri Lanka, India, Maldives and then on to Mauritius, Reunion, Cape Town, St Helena, Azores and back to the UK. 

I am looking for one crew from Mauritius/ Reunion Island to Cape Town (mid June to end of July). If of any interest do email me.

The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com