Year 2- 30 August 2025 –Komodo Islands Tour - Labuan Bajo - Flores
We woke to another lovely morning and I think I had heard the Adhan earlier but thank goodness I must have drifted off again. We got up, had some tea and breakfast and then headed off by dinghy to the centre of Labuan Bajo to the marina where we left the dinghy at the dinghy dock. There is a central sort of Harbour here and a lighthouse. We were to meet near the lighthouse for our tour. We checked in and then had to wait about 20 minutes before we were led to our boat called New Hope 9! Crawford & Elaine from the rally joined us.
I was amazed about how many boats large and small were anchored in the large bay of Labuan Bajo. They were mostly tourist type boats (a bit like Turkish Gulet) and you wondered whether they were ever full or used as there are so many. We set off from Labuan Bajo and we must have had about 30 on our boat. This was a type of gin palace but it had 4 Honda 250cc engines on the back -I thought a bit excessive. We motored out of the harbour and began to pass a lot of these boats but within a short period of time the Skipper opened up the engines and we were soon doing a great speed through the water (my guess is about 40kts) This coastline is stunning with a rugged mountainous coastline with brown arid rocks and soil and the occasional tree/bush. There are then lots of lovely islands scattered offshore with reefs around some giving the lovely colours of blue, turquoise, yellows, greens and browns. There are little villages here and there and with fishing boats and squid boats bobbing gently before their next fishing trip. It was just lovely to be here and to see this in such good conditions and it seems the weather is always good here.
We motored for about 1 hour and 20 minutes and we had proper seats inside the cabin although 4 could go up to the top deck where the Skipper was helming. This was a good spot as you had a good breeze and you had a good high view over the surrounding sea and islands. There are strong currents and eddies which you could see on the water with ripples and up swirlings etc. There were a number of other similar boats heading in the same direction and like entrails in the sky from planes, these boats were leaving their track through white streams of water coming from the engines extending about 100 metres behind them.
We came to Padar Island and to a beach with a wooden pontoon. As this was being repaired we had to step off the boat and wade the last few feet. This Island has some Komodo Dragons -about 40 I was told and the purpose of coming here was to walk up to the top as it was quite a high island. From the top you can apparently see over the Komodo National Park which is what we are in. We got our shoes on and started our ascent. The climb is about 500 metres and there are at least 800 steps. We were not alone so we took it in stages and every now and then we would stop to take pictures. The views were incredible over the range of islands scattered around with their arid colours and shapes. In addition we began to see the colours of the reefs whose colours became more evident as we ascended. There were various signs warning of Komodo Dragons. The view from the top was stunning looking out across the Komodo National Park. It remined me of a similar picture from the Galapagos where we climbed an Island and looked down at its saddle shape. It was a wonderful sight despite the number of other tourists present all taking selfies and pictures.
We headed down and sat in the shade waiting for our boat New Hope 9 which it did and we got onboard. We had about a 15-minute journey (which at our speed is quite a few nm) which brought us to Pink Beach or the local came Pantai Merah. The beach is pink because of the coral which has been ground up by the sea. You could swim here but there were a number of shacks/restaurants where you could get a drink. We were told not to go off or behind the beach as there are a number of Komodo Dragons here. We decided as it was so hot to go and have a Bintang (the name of the beer here) and enjoy the view and the breeze fanning us. This was the place we were also having lunch. This was chicken with rice and vegetables with a Sambol sauce which was quite hot but not bad for a tour lunch. As we were eating some Tamil deer came on to the beach and were in effect begging for food. Apparently the Komodo Dragons eat them!!
After lunch we got back on the boat and 15 minutes away was Komodo Island where there is the main concentration of dragons and about 1700 of them. We got off on the pier and walked along it. Well b me at the end of the pier was a Komodo Dragon -sitting under the tree. It was I think a male and looked stone like. We were asked to go to the Rangers Area who all had wooden sticks with a vee at the end. They did a welcome introduction and told us to stick together and not to go close to the dragons as they can over about 5-6 meters go at about 20km an hour. The males grow to about 3-3.5 meters and live for about 40-50 years. The females are smaller and grow to about 2-2.3 meters and live about 30-35 years.
The Komodo dragon, also known as the Komodo monitor, is a large reptile of the monitor lizard that is endemic to the Indonesian islands of Komodo, Rinca, Flores, Gili Dasami, and Gili Motang. The largest extant population lives within the Komodo National Park in Eastern Indonesia. It is the largest extant species of lizard with sizes as I have said and weighing up to 150 kg (330 lb).
As a result of their size, Komodo dragons are apex predators, and dominate the ecosystems in which they live. Komodo dragons hunt and ambush prey including invertebrates, birds, and mammals. Komodo dragons' group behaviour in hunting is exceptional in the reptile world. The diet of Komodo dragons mainly consists of Javan rusa, though they also eat considerable amounts of carrion – deer, water buffalo, wild pigs etc. Komodo dragons also occasionally attack humans.
Mating begins between May and August, and the eggs are laid in September; with as many as 30 eggs are deposited at a time in an abandoned megapode nest or in a self-dug nesting hole. We were told they actually dig 5 holes but only use one as the others are dummies and that of the 30 eggs only 15 % actually hatch. The eggs are incubated for seven to eight months, hatching in April, when insects are most plentiful. Young Komodo dragons are vulnerable and dwell in trees for about three years to avoid predators, such as cannibalistic adults, which young Komodo dragons also try to repel by rolling in faeces. They take 8 to 9 years to mature (when they can start breeding) and are estimated to live up to 30 years.
Komodo dragons were first recorded by Western scientists in 1910. Their large size and fearsome reputation make them popular zoo exhibits. In the wild, their range has been reduced by human encroachment and is likely to contract further from the effects of climate change; hence, they are listed as Endangered by the IUCN Red List. They are protected under Indonesian law, and Komodo National Park was founded in 1980 to aid protection efforts. The Komodo dragon has a tail as long as its body, as well as about 60 frequently replaced, serrated teeth that can measure up to 2.5 cm (1 in) in length. Its saliva is frequently blood-tinged because its teeth are almost completely covered by gingival tissue that is naturally lacerated during feeding. It also has a long, yellow, deeply forked tongue and can smell prey up to 4km away. They have about 53 bacteria in their mouths and they bite their victim who then is poisoned and will die a number of days later. They only really need to eat once a month. Komodo dragon skin is reinforced by armoured scales, which contain tiny bones called osteoderms that function as a sort of natural chain-mail. The only areas lacking osteoderms on the head of the adult Komodo dragon are around the eyes, nostrils, mouth margins, and parietal eye, a light-sensing organ on the top of the head. Where lizards typically have one or two varying patterns or shapes of osteoderms, Komodo’s have four: rosette, platy, dendritic, and vermiform. This rugged hide makes Komodo dragon skin a poor source of leather.
The rangers took us along the beach and we saw another 4 or 5 dragons under the trees. They are more active in the morning when it is cooler and when hot they rest and pretend to be asleep. Their eyesight is poor so they tend to sleep at night. The rangers took us behind the beach and into the woods and we saw two more large males, the females making themselves scarce due to the mating season. We walked along the paths and came across three other Komodo’s lying still although they would move their head a little and you could see a flap come down over their eyes. They were an amazing sight although looking somewhat prehistoric. As we left the woods to return to the beach we saw a young Komodo about three years old walking around. It must have come down from a tree.
We returned to the boat and then we another 15-20 ride to Taka Makassar which was an island with a sand spit which was good for snorkelling and swimming. The water was so blue and crystal clear and there was quite a current. We snorkelled towards a reef and there was very healthy coral which was good to see and lots of fish. We saw a black tip reef shark which was about 2-foot swimming around. As we were snorkelling there was a white type fish which came to nip your leg. This was a bit disconcerting at first as you can imagine and I thought it may have been the shark!! It was certainly good to have a swim.
We then moved out between some islands in a large shallow area (7-9 m) which they called Manta Point as you can sometimes see Manta Rays here. We got out into the water but there was little to be seen and no Manta’s. In fact it was a bit dangerous as there was quite a current running and people got spread out and there were quite a lot of boats around. Luckily we picked everyone up safe and sound and then moved on to our last destination on this boat called Siaba Bay. (Turtle) You can also see turtles and Manta here. Everyone got out and initially nothing was seen bit then a large Manta Ray came and the sight was magnificent – with a huge tail and about 2m across.
We were then taken to Kelor Island some 30 minutes away back toward Labuan Bajo. We had booked the whole day and so there were two more events for us. We were therefore dropped off at Kelor Island which was a lovely little sandy island facing the sun which was gradually going down. The beach had conveniently a few bars so we had a cool Bintang which was welcoming after such a long day. We were then asked to go on to our new boat Silver Shark and then we headed out into the bay and watched as the sun went down over the islands with the colours going from yellow to orange to pink over about a 30minute period. It was a treat.
We then went on to Kalong Island as it was now nearly dark and waited. There were a lot of other boats there. Suddenly in the sky there was a flying fox and the another and the sky began to fill with thousands and thousands of Flying foxes going overhead we assumed to get some fruit. It was like it was snowing with bats and a magnificent sight and one to round off what had been a great and most interesting day. What a treat to have done so many things in such a beautiful setting. I will never forget this day.
We then set off at top speed in the dark back to LB and the Skipper did not slow down until we were almost in harbour. We got off and I had a message from Mark Godwin who was joining Stormbird today. He was in a bar near the harbour and we soon found him and it was great to see him and introduce him to Tony and Jon who are leaving tomorrow. We decided to have some supper which was good and enjoyable. We then found the dinghy dock and the dinghy was luckily still there. We all managed to get in and returned to Stormbird in the dark.
Tony had unfortunately had a blocked heads before we left for our tour and having left it and it had still had not cleared. He said he will deal with it in the morning. Mark went to bed as he was tired having flown from the UK. He will get up early tomorrow as he is going on the tour we have done today.
The picture of the day has to be the star of the day –a Komodo Dragon.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
In year three I will be going from Thailand to Sri Lanka, India, Maldives and then on to Chagos, Mauritius, Reunion, Cape Town, St Helena, Azores and back to the UK. I am looking for crew from Mauritius/ Reunion Island to Cape Town and from Cape Town to the UK. If of any interest do email me.