Year 2- 28 July 2025 – Kei Kecil -Ngiar Varat Island- Banda Island
We continued through the night taking 3-hour shifts each whilst the other rested. There was no wind so we had to motor. There was little traffic although there was the odd light adjacent to us which I assume were fishing boats but they did not come any closer. It is quite nice on your own at night as you can do your duty but at the same time have time to yourself if you know what I mean. You can reflect and contemplate. I suppose it is a form of meditation.
The night passed well and the light came and it was a bit of a grey day. We could see the Banda Islands ahead and we were now in the Banda Sea. There was one boat ahead of us some 5-6 nm in front. The water was like a millpond and there was no wind. We saw the odd large log or branch float by and the islands began to loom up including the volcano.
The volcano on Banda Island, Indonesia, is called Gunung Api, which translates to "fire mountain" in Indonesian. It's a small but active island volcano in the Banda Islands archipelago, known for its key role in the spice trade and its recent eruptions. It's an active volcano, with the last major eruption in 1988. Even after that eruption, there is still minor fumarole activity near the summit. It is about 640m high. As we approached you could see the trace of the last volcanic eruption where the lava flowed down and went into the sea and where no vegetation has grown ever since.
The Banda Islands, particularly Banda Neira, boast a rich and complex history, initially renowned for their nutmeg and mace production, which fuelled global spice trade. At one point this was the only place in the world where it grew. The Dutch East India Company (VOC) exerted brutal control, culminating in a massacre of the local population (about 13,000 people) in 1621 to secure a monopoly. This violent colonial history is intertwined with the islands' pre-colonial past, local resistance, and the enduring legacy of spice trade, which continues to shape Banda's identity.
The Banda Islands were the sole source of nutmeg and mace until the mid-19th century, making them incredibly valuable in the global spice trade. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in 1512, establishing trade relations. The Dutch and British East India Companies both sought control of the islands and their valuable spices. The Dutch, through the VOC, eventually gained dominance, displacing the Portuguese and attempting to establish a complete monopoly over nutmeg. In 1667, a treaty was signed where the British ceded Run, one of the Banda islands, to the Dutch in exchange for Manhattan Island.
Gunung Api was shrouded in cloud as we approached. There were a cluster of islands here and as we passed one to go to the main island which has a lagoon with an entrance to the North we saw lots of houses and buildings some of which looked like shacks. We motored round to the entrance to the lagoon and were met by a customs type boat which led us inside and over to the main town where there were a number of boats at anchor Mediterranean fashion with an anchor down and line ashore. We had to do the same and put our anchor down and we had two lines ashore. It did not take us long before we were in position.
The place had a mysterious beauty about it. There were some colonial buildings like a small hotel near by where we went for a drink and had our documents checked. There were lots of palm trees and it had a sort of typical tropical feel about it. There was soon the call to prayer from the various mosques here (apparently 90% of the population are Muslim) some by the water. There were huts by the water and smoke billowing from the odd fire. There were some very old-style boats – very long and slender with pointed bows going about their business. Unfortunately, there was quite a lot of rubbish in the water floating about which was a shame.
We got the dinghy down and went ashore to meet the agent Abba who checked out documents. We met some of the other rally participants who had trekked up Gunung Api and said the view was great. Abba told us about various tours and there is an informal dinner tonight at his house. It felt good to be here after a 181 nm motor from Kei Kecil. This place has quite an evil history and you can imagine the old wooden hulks of sailing boats loading their booty to take home to the UK to see for a fortune with £ signs in their eyes!!.
We had lunch on Stormbird and then had a siesta. After our rest we showered and went ashore. Abba talked about his house but he runs a hotel. We walked out into the streets which were poor and third world. There were wooden shelves for the market and small individual shops selling local wares. There were little mopeds buzzing around and it felt quite poor but everyone was happy and wanted to say hello.
We meandered through the streets and eventually got to Abba’s House – it was a hotel now but used to be a private villa for a Dutchman who had 5 Nutmeg Plantation. The property was magnificent with a lovely old colonial style with lots of old lovely wood and shutters and antiques from that period. The house overlooked the Beliga Fort which is hexagonal in shape and which the Dutch built in 1609. There is nothing in it now but it was quite substantial with thick walls and still standing – well-built bearing in mind its age.
We had a drink and admired the scenery and antiques – it was like going back hundreds of years. We then had a meal which they had prepared which was delicious and provided a wide variety of food from this area. It was good to meet many people and to share experiences. We plan to do a spice tour tomorrow and have to be back to Abba’s house at 8.30am for breakfast before we go on our tour.
The picture of the day is the approach to Banda with the volcano covered in cloud.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
In year three I will be going from Thailand to Sri Lanka, India, Maldives and then on to Chagos, Mauritius, Reunion, Cape Town, St Helena, Azores and back to the UK. I am looking for crew from Mauritius/ Reunion Island to Cape Town and from Cape Town to the UK. If of any interest do email me.
The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com