Year 2- 22 August 2025 – South Buton – Flores
The Adhan started at 4.15am again and went on for quite some time and then stopped. I went back to sleep and woke to a lovely sunny day about 06.45am. Tony was already up and we had tea admiring the start of the day. There was quite a lot of condensation on deck. We had breakfast with some of the nice mangoes I had bought in the village. Adam was leaving today and so he set about finishing any jobs and final packing, He also went through the engine room and we think we have identified that little leak (salt water) so he said he would put a nappy type of device there. I will need to get this leak checked in Thailand.
The boat came for Adam about 9.00am and we waived our goodbyes etc. He has been on Stormbird since about 13 July and joined n Cairns and had become a valued crew member and was now well used to Stormbird. I thanked him for his company, companionship and crewmanship and I am sure we will keep in touch and who knows he may come again next year.
Jon, Tony and I prepared Stormbird as we had decided to leave today. The reason for this is that we feel we had seen the villages and the area and we need to get on as we have to be in Labuan Bajo by 29 August. We also have been considering stopping off in the Taka Bonerate which is about halfway to Ruing our destination on Flores.
Taka Bonerate National Park is a marine park which includes the Takabonerate atoll islands, located in the Flores Sea, south of Sulawesi island of Indonesia. The area, which consists of the atoll islands and surrounding marine area was granted national park protection status in 1992. In 2015 the Taka Bone Rate National Park has been included in the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves. With an area of 530,765 hectares which has an atoll expanse of 220,000 hectares, Taka Bone Rate meaning 'coral islands over sand' is the biggest atoll in Indonesia, and Southeast Asia,] and the third biggest in the world after Kwajalein Atoll and Suvadiva.
The atoll consists of separate table reefs enclosing a lagoon filled with massive reefs The atoll has 21 islands, eight of which are inhabited. There are 15 islands for diving and snorkelling. The main island is Tinabo Island with 1.500x500 meters square and white smooth sandy beach as baby powder. The natives of the atoll are the Bonerate people. They traditionally trade for fishery sea products from the Bajau in exchange for freshwater and other land supply. The Bonerate are predominantly Muslim, although with strong elements of traditional beliefs.
They speak the Bonerate language, a Celebic language, and like most languages of Indonesia part of the greater Austronesian languages. Their closest linguistic relations is with people in the neighbouring Buton, Wakatobi and Muna Island in Southeast Sulawesi. Most also speak Indonesian. The atoll is of major ecological importance, with rich marine and bird life. The national park is considered to contain some of the world's highest marine biodiversity. According to the Indonesian Department of Forestry the atoll has 261 species of coral, 295 species of coral fish, 244 species of mollusc and other species such as hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata), Pacific ridley turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea), and green turtle (Chelonia mydas).
The wind was looking better today than in the next few days and if we spend a day or so at Take Bonerate we can then move on to Ruing and then be able to get on to Labuan Bajo on time. We upped the anchor and headed out of the anchorage and there was a little wind so we put up the genoa and sailed out slowly. Once free of the headland we made a course for one of the atolls some 100nm away. The wind was relatively light and so we were only making 4-4.5 kts which was fine really. I had checked the weather and it was supposed to strengthen about 6.00pm which would be good overnight. The plan was to arrive at light or a bit later so we could see how to enter the atoll pass.
We decided to fish and so I put a rod out and we forgot about it for a while. We sailed on slowly taking an hour each to be on watch. It was gentle deckchair sailing and it was warm. Jon decided to make another loaf which was good and we had some of Jon’s previous loaf. We had lunch of bread and houmous with mackerel in tomatoes and salad and avocado followed by watermelon.
The afternoon wore on and we just chilled and the wind began to strengthen about 4-4.30pm. Then the rod suddenly went and we appeared to have caught a fish. I got the gloves and wound in slowly. Every now and then the line would wiggle as the fish tried to get away. I continued to wind and eventually I saw that we had caught quite a large wahoo – this is a white tasty fish. It was a sort of black, blue with silver stripes and quite streamlined – see the picture of the day.
I dispatched the fish and then filleted it. There just have been about 20 steaks on it. Well we know what we are having for supper and I put the rest in the freezer and hope it will freeze. It was a lovely fish and a good catch which will keep us in fish for some days. It must have been 8-10 kilos. It took a while to clean up the mess after.
Once ship shape Jon cooked the fish with vegetables and a tomato sauce which was delicious. The fish was so fresh and flaky and was easy to eat and with little bones. A real treat.
We settled into the night after it got dark and we noticed lots of looms of light in the horizon which will no doubt be fishing fleets. They are a long way from land and we will have to watch out for them and none are on AIS. The wind has lessened a little. At this rate we should get to out atoll at about 07.30am which should be fine. I am taking the 8-11.00pm slot and will be on again at 5.00am. Tony will do 11.000pm to 2.00am and Jon 02.00am to 5.00am. Let’s hope we have a good night and that we do not have to dodge too many fishing boats.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
In year three I will be going from Thailand to Sri Lanka, India, Maldives and then on to Chagos, Mauritius, Reunion, Cape Town, St Helena, Azores and back to the UK. I am looking for crew from Mauritius/ Reunion Island to Cape Town and from Cape Town to the UK. If of any interest do email me.
The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com