Year 2- 17 September 2025 –Refiet Island -Sumbawa to Badas Bay and Whale Shark Experience
We were up about 4.20am as we were supposed to be collected at about 5.00am. We had some tea and got ready. The longboat picked up Brice and Nuria from Sabre 11 who were joining us for the trip and who were anchored nearby. The boat then came over to us to pick us up and it had started to rain.
We all got in the longboat and Nuria was already asleep. We all got in and had an hour and a half trip to the other side of Bay of Saleh where the whale sharks were. Most slept whereas I enjoyed sitting at the front and watched the day gradually begin to dawn.
The whale shark is a slow-moving, filter-feeding carpet shark and the largest known extant fish species. The largest confirmed individual had a length of 18.8 m (61.7 ft). The whale shark holds many records for size in the animal kingdom, most notably being by far the most massive living non-cetacean animal.
Whale sharks inhabit the open waters of all tropical oceans. They are rarely found in water below 21 °C (70 °F). The lifespan of a whale shark is estimated to be between 80 and 130 years, based on studies of their vertebral growth bands and the growth rates of free-swimming sharks. Whale sharks have very large mouths and are filter feeders, which is a feeding mode that occurs in only two other sharks, the megamouth shark and the basking shark. They feed almost exclusively on plankton and small fishes, and do not pose any threat to humans. The name "whale shark" refers to the animal's appearance and large size; it is a fish, not a mammal, and like all sharks is not closely related to whales.
Whale sharks possess a broad, flattened head with a large mouth and two small eyes located at the front corners. Unlike many other sharks, whale shark mouths are located at the front of the head rather than on the underside of the head. A 12.1 m (39.7 ft) whale shark was reported to have a mouth 1.55 m (5.1 ft) across. Whale shark mouths can contain over 300 rows of tiny teeth and 20 filter pads which it uses to filter feed. The spiracles are located just behind the eyes. Whale sharks have five large pairs of gills. Their skin is dark grey with a white belly marked with an arrangement of pale grey or white spots and stripes that is unique to each individual. The skin can be up to 15 cm (5.9 in) thick and is very hard and rough to the touch. The whale shark has three prominent ridges along its sides, which start above and behind the head and end at the caudal peduncle.] The shark has two dorsal fins set relatively far back on the body, a pair of pectoral fins, a pair of pelvic fins and a single medial anal fin. Evidence suggests that whale sharks can recover from major injuries and may be able to regenerate small sections of their fins. Their spot markings have also been shown to reform over a previously wounded area.
Limited evidence, mostly from males, suggests that sexual maturity occurs around 8 to 9 meters (26 to 30 ft) in length, with the possibility of females sexually maturing at a similar size or larger. A 2020 study looked at the growth of whale shark individuals over a 10-year period around the Ningaloo Reef and concluded the species exhibits sexual dimorphism with regard to size, with females growing larger than males. The study found that males on average reach 8 to 9 meters (26 to 30 ft) in length. The same study had fewer female data but estimated an average length of around 14.5 m (48 ft).
The whale shark is a filter feeder – one of only three known filter-feeding shark species (along with the basking shark and the megamouth shark). It feeds on plankton including copepods, krill, chaetognaths, jellyfish, fish eggs, Christmas Island red crab larvae and small nektonic life, such as small squid or fish (sardines, anchovies, mackerels and small tunas). It also feeds on clouds of eggs during mass spawning of fish and corals.
We eventually arrived and tied up to a local squid boat with a large outrigger platform and we could see some whale sharks by the squid boat and swimming around. They were sticking their heads out of the water to catch the krill and shrimps. They were silver with black and silver spots and looked amazing. We had a quick coffee and breakfast (banana etc) and then we were ready to go in.
We got into the water and it was full of krill/shrimp bits but gradually we could clearly see the whales sharks feeding They were between 5-9 meters long and you could see their mouths opening and closing and their 5 large gills each side filtering out the waste. They were beautiful creatures and would swim around you or under you as if you were not there. The guides had bought go pro’s to film us and I had my own and the aim was to photograph every person with the whale sharks.
We swam with them and the 6 of us had the place and the sharks to ourselves until another boat came. It was a magical experience and we were all thrilled and to pinch ourselves that we were here swimming with whale sharks. I took my own footage as well and still pictures from the longboat. We must have spent about two hours watching these amazing and gentle creatures which need to be protected. We then had to get out and have some coffee and some more bananas.
We then had to motor back with a smile on our faces and to look at the pictures we had taken and we were given the pictures and videos of what the guides had taken so we have a memory and pictures of this unique occasion. We got back to Stormbird and sorted ourselves out and prepared to leave. The rain had stopped and there was little wind. We upped the anchor and set off up the Bay of Selah and back to Badas Harbour. We motored initially and then when the wind increased we sailed until we reached Badas Bay. We motored in and anchored and many other boats were there.
We decided not to go ashore and we cooked a chicken curry which was good. It had been a long but special day. We hope to go on a tour tomorrow at Badas and see some Buffalo racing. Goodness knows what that is like but we will see.
The picture of the day is of course a lovely whale shark.
Need/Opportunity Year Three
In year three I will be going from Thailand to Sri Lanka, India, Maldives and then on to Chagos, Mauritius, Reunion, Cape Town, St Helena, Azores and back to the UK. I am looking for crew from Mauritius/ Reunion Island to Cape Town and from Cape Town to the UK. If of any interest do email me.
The blog will continue as we continue the journey. If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog then do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com